Mulhouse, France

Another fine day, so it was on the bikes along the canal into Mulhouse.  The central square reminded us of Freiburg which of course is not very far away, and this bit of France has been Germany several times in its history.  We wandered through the streets and found some very quirky things - one smallish pedestrian shopping area had dinosaurs dotted about on the paving - on one street corner there were a flock of sheep made of metal barrels - in the main square there was a lady sewing a pretty knitted/crocheted cover for a lamppost and all around the town were knitted covers for tree trunks and handles on shop doors!!  A hunt for a geocache led us to the flock of sheep, although we weren't quite sure what we were going to find beforehand.  The clue was Proctologie - we are sure some of our readers will know what this is, but we needed to google it.  The photo will point to the part of the body this refers to!

After a tasty lunch at one of the cafes, we cycled back beside the canal and continued on past the campsite into the countryside a short way.  We believe this bit of canal is navigable and we passed a couple of locks, but there were no sign of any boats.  We saw trains, though, as the railway runs aong the other side of the canal.  So much freight being carried by train here - one train with 2 layers of new cars seemed to go on for ever.  What a good idea that is - those huge car transporters on our roads are a menace.

It's just starting raining this evening and the forecast is rain for tomorrow, but we shall be moving on a bit so maybe we will miss it.

The sheep!

Art in action

Place de la Reunion, Mulhouse

Three countries in one day

Doing a bit of catching up this evening (Wednesday) because we've been without wifi for a while.  On Monday morning the rain had reached us at Sirmione so we were pleased that we had planned to do some journeying that day.  We left Lake Garda behind us and drove west via Bergamo, crossing the border into Switzerland at Chiasso, just north of Como.  The motorway took us between the arms of Lake Lugano, with very cloudy views, and then back into Italy again
at Porte Tresa on the western side of the lake.  Camping International turned out not to be the most exciting of campsites and it was very gloomy in the rain.  But we dusted off the brollies and took a look at our surroundings - but not for long! 

Yesterday morning, it was a different story altogether - lovely sunshine and even the campsite looked quite pretty. From the van, we could look over the wall to the lake and the little town of Porte Tresa.  We could watch the traffic queueing at the border control where the river into this section of the lake divides the two countries.  It must be quite frustrating for people going to work one way or the other.  We walked calmly over the bridge and none of the officials took any notice of us even though we'd remembered to carry our passports.  We caught a train on the narrow guage railway that runs between Porte Tresa and Lugano.  At one point it travels onto the main road and diagonally crosses to the other side - there are lights, but no barriers, so it was quite an interesting journey. 
In Lugano, after a quick look in the cathedral - not much to see as the whole interior is being renovated and there were just glass partitions to see the work going on, we walked steeply down to the Piazza della Riforma with it's very expensive shops and continued on beside the lake to Cassarate.  As it was such a clear day, we decided to go on the funicular railway to the top of Monte Bre (925m) to had our picnic and a bit of a walk.  The main path took you up some steps and then down lots more through woods to the village of Bre which was perched overlooking another branch of the lake.  We knew what goes down must come up again and we counted the steps on the way back - 389!!  But there's a cafe near the funicular station, with superb views ....  Back down in Lugano, we whiled away another half hour or so in a park where we briefly used the free city wifi to check our emails and to see if there were any geocaches nearby.  There was, and it was just a few yards away in our park.  Our 'Rough Guide' suggested that we go and see the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, which although very plain on the outside and now overshaddowed by the new ultra-modern Cultural Centre, was quite amazing inside.  The church was founded in 1490 and in 1529 Bernardo Luini painted a huge fresco of the Passion and Crucifixion on a wall separating the nave from the chancel.  Much smaller, but just as impressive was another of the Last Supper.  As if we hadn't climbed enough steps in one day, we climbed another lot beside this church on the way back to the railway station - another 286!!  Phew.

Bre village

The funicular

View from cafe Monte Bre

Another view from cafe

Driverless funicular!

The fresco

Monte Bre from the steps up to station

After crossing the border again this morning - even in the van nobody took any notice of us - we couldn't leave without driving the mile or so to Caslano and the Alprose 'Schokoland'.  We were expecting a Willy Wonka experience and although we were each given a bread stick dipped into a chocolate fountain on arrival, we seemed to have come on the day all the Oompa-Loompas were on holiday!  We could look down on all the machinery and conveyor belts, but nothing was moving and had to be satisfied with a short video of what goes on.  The shop, however, made up for it all.  There were chocolates of all shapes, sizes and flavours - this is Switzerland - and visitors can eat as much as they like!!  Mind you, there's a limit to how much you feel like sampling at 9.30 in the morning.  But we're bringing home some goodies and for faithful Blog-Followers there will be a free sample - just use the password:  "Schokoland"!

Then we did quite a chunk of driving, all the way north through Switzerland and into France - 3 countries in one day and 194 miles closer to home.  Now at Brunstatt on the outskirts of Mulhouse which we will explore tomorrow.

Lugano

2 days of country hopping. Italy- Switzerland - Italy by road to Porte Tresa yesterday. Today by train Porte Tresa to Lugano. Sitting by lake in lovely park using free town WiFi. More news next stop.

Sirmione

 We decided to have another day just enjoying the lakeside, so just rode into Bardolino again yesterday to see things without the massive market - there had been a children's cycle race instead, with some quite young children all kitted out in the racing cycle gear and there were huge trophies waiting to be presented.  I did think about going up the hill to the swimming pool, but thinking was as far as I got ....  But we did walk into Garda in the evening, which is a lovely time of day to look around the shops.  Although still warm, it was quite an overcast day and did rain a little bit on our way back from Garda.  A pity for the people putting on a music concert on one of the piazzas - all the chairs got wet and the concert didn't start.  The rain didn't last long, so maybe it happened later.

This morning we left our lovely spot at La Rocca and came the short way to Sirmione - our last port of call at the south end of Lake Garda.  We settled in at Camping Village San Francesco, then cycled to the narrow promontory that extends into the lake for 4km.  We knew it was likely to be busy, being Sunday, but we were very pleased not to be trying to park a vehicle!  Leaving the bikes, we crossed the small bridge over an inlet beside the castle of Rocca Scaligera, through the little village of Sirmione with its many giftshops, restaurants and ice cream parlours and onto a path which eventually led to the end of the peninsular.  On the way, we stopped at the small pool surrounded by rocks at the lakeside where Garda's mineral spring water has been piped up to.  I paddled in the warm water and then got a bit too close to the spout - and oh boy, was it hot!  At the headland high above the lake, are the Grotte di Catullo, the remains of an enormous 1st century BC/AD Roman villa (167m x 105m).  We marvelled at how clever those Romans were - it had been 3 stories high and with some arches and walls that are still standing.  Back in Sirmione village we had a (very expensive!) cup of tea/coffee before the ride back to the van.  Took an evening stroll along the lake to find a geocache.

Bardolino and Verona

Yesterday we had an easy day and just cycled along the waterfront into Bardolino to take a stroll around their weekly market.  This was probably the longest market we've ever been too - the stalls are all in a very long line along the prom for at least half a mile.  John bought a new leather belt and we found a geocache under a jetty despite the huge crowds.

A bit of Bardolino market

Today we caught the bendybus No.164 to Verona.  It only took an hour and we were in the heart of the city.  We walked just about everywhere - over the bridge at Castelvecchio, by the Duomo, San Fermo Church, through lots of piazzas, saw arches, towers and beautiful buildings, marvelled at the enormous Roman arena and enjoyed lunch at Caffe Alle Fogge in the shade.  We also admired the many cafes in the huge Piazza Bra, but had a cheaper sit down in the small park by a pretty fountain.  And of course, we had to go to see Juliet's balcony!  It was actually quite fun, because the tiny courtyard was full of people, some writing messages to put on the wall, some leaving their personal padlock, some cupping the statue of Juliet's right breast (which is meant to bring new love within the year and is extremely shiny!!) and some paying to go up and stand on the balcony that was done up in Gothic style in 1935 to capitolize on the Hollywood movie!  Our quest was to find a particular padlock with the geocaching symbol on it and use a code to unlock it and sign the log. The funny thing was that it was right behind the statue, so at least a dozen people now have a photo of themselves not only with Juliet, but also with John's bottom while he was bending over unlocking and locking the padlock!  
Altogether a grand day out.

Gardone Riviera

Taking advantage of this fantastic weather, we cycled the short way to the ferry at Garda and caught the boat across the lake to Gardone Riviera, calling at Portese and Salo on the way.  All so beautiful.  We met some Americans between Salo and Gardone who were spending most of the day travelling over the lake and we were able to confirm that Malcesine and Riva were well worth spending time at.  Gardone was very quiet when we arrived so no problem finding somewhere to have lunch.

Our cruise ship

Salo

Salo

Then we climbed the hill to Il Vitoriale degli Italiani, the former home of the poet and nationalist Gabriele d'Annunzio.  He was a very eccentric egotist and the house has been left as it was when he died in 1938 - each gloomy bizarre room filled with strange artifacts from Buddhas and toy animals in the bathroom to a machine gun in one of the libraries. On the table in the dining room, as a warning to greedy guests, is a huge gilded turtle with the shell of a real one that had died of overeating!  On one wall were written the 5 Deadly Sins - he left out Lust and Greed - that says it all really!  The gardens are built into the steep hillside and include an amphitheatre, museums, an enormous mausoleum (with fantastic views) and the prow of the battleship Puglia sticking out between the trees.  So it was a very odd place to visit, but fascinating all the same.

A pretty corner of Gardone Riviere

The Prioria

View from the mausoleum

Battleship Puglia

The prow of the Puglia

With time to kill back down at the waterfront, we whiled it away with a gelato at one of the cafes, then relaxed on the ferry trip back home.

La Rocca, Garda

We left Ledro yesterday morning with the lake sparkling in the sunshine.  The owners of the campsite have been extremely friendly and they were thrilled that we had been so happy staying there.  We drove back to Lake Garda and came down the eastern side of the lake - beautiful villages hugging the lakeside - and found La Rocca Camp half-way between Garda and Bardolino. As usual it is situated beside the lake, but this one is split in two halves either side of the road.  On the lake side are the touring pitches and on the hillside behind us are 'maxicaravans' - all shapes and sizes of cabins for hire, including 'Maxicaravan Suite' which have a private whirlpool too!  There's a swimming pool up there too - we may even try it as it is heated - we'll see! And to go up there, we don't even have to cross the road - there's a tunnel linking the two areas.  Too hot to do any more than check all this out, so stayed put on the little patch we call home for the next few days and then walked by the lake later to watch the sun going down ....

Unusual evening activity on the lake

                                    

Evening on Lake Garda

Another unusual activity!  See us in the mirror!

Today has again been a scorcher, so probably best not to go on about how lovely it is here!  Cycled on the lakeside path into Garda this afternoon and spent some time people-watching and finding a couple of geocaches.  One of them was in a bushy tree by the path and as John went to take it, it dropped out of his hand and fell behind the small wall and thick hedge bordering the posh Garda Parc Hotel!  We could see there was a track behind, and found a way into an open gate and along the track to retrieve it - it was OK because we think this was just the tradesmen's entrance! 

Beautiful Garda

Tomorrow we plan to go by ferry to Gardone Riviera on the west side of the lake.

Cycle to Lago d'Ampola

We decided last night that if it was a fine day today, we would go for a bike ride along the valley, but would move on if the weather wasn't so good.  Although a bit dull first thing, the sun soon came out, and so did the bikes.  From the west end of the lake (where we are at Pieve) there's a sign-posted cycle track away from the road, but following rivers (some completely dry) through the valley.  We went past Pieve, Bezzecca, Tiarno di Sotto and Tiarno di Sopra, stopping to eat our picnic beside an ancient little church at St. Lucia (unfortunately locked).  Soon after Tiamo di Sopra is a small  nature reserve at Lago d'Ampola - so we left the bikes by the (closed!) visitor centre and wandered along a path to find a grassy patch to drink our flask of tea and bask in the sunshine.  A very tranquil spot.  Coming back, we went into Bezzecca for another wander.  We were fascinated by the 'Fresh Milk Machine' - full instructions on how to first select your bottle (glass or plastic) and pay for it, then how to open a small door, place your bottle, pay for the quantity you select and out comes the milk!  We didn't actually give it a go and anyway, the little chalet didn't look big enough for a cow! 
Our wander included following a trail through the village with information boards telling the history of Garibaldi and the unification of Italy in the mid-1860s.  It then led you uphill to tunnels and trenches in the rocks from WW1.  We walked through some of tunnels - like a maze - and those at different levels are now joined by a spiral staircase for visitors.
Back home we enjoyed the sunshine and our lovely view on our last evening here.

Resting by church of St. Lucia

Cycle track through the valley (Health Walk going other way??)

Lago d'Ampola

The milk machine hut

In the WW1 tunnels

View of Lago di Ledro from our pitch

Walk from Pieve

A lovely sunny morning, so we packed up a picnic and set off through the little village of Pieve and began an uphill climb.  We'd just started on the very steep path when a text told us that the family had arrived at Verona Airport ready for their flight home.  Eventually our path levelled off a bit and although very narrow and rough, taking it fairly slowly we enjoyed the views over the lake and to the mountains all around us.  A small group were having sailing instructions the whole time we were up there, and the voices do carry well in this landscape!  A lot of the time we were looking back at our campsite in the distance and zooming in we could see our van and another pitched a few yards away.  After a while, things changed - another one turned up in between!  The path eventually took a dive downhill and led us into Mezzolago.  That was when a text told us that they were safely landed at Gatwick.  Yesterday, Hannah had looked at the weather forecast on her phone and said that we should have a sunny morning, but there would be thunderstorms later on.  Strangely, after following the lakeside path back to the campsite, we'd just opened our door and there was a clap of thunder!  That was the only one, but it did rain for about an hour soon after. 
We'd so enjoyed our meal at the restaurant here last night that we felt we needed to give it another go!  The staff are so welcoming and it is a beautiful pine building too.  We both had very yummy pizzas and shared one of the meringue cakes - like you had last night, Adam! 

Tea break, looking back to Pieve

Looking towards Pur

The Church at Mezzolago

Back down at the lakeside

Restaurant, Camping Al Lago, Ledro

Lago di Ledro

Europa Camping, Torbole

Another beautiful morning yesterday when we tidied up the van ready to leave our pretty little campsite at Torbole and after stopping for a 'big shop' at Poli, we drove the 16 miles up, via a tunnel through the massive rock of Monte Englo, to the small lake Ledro.  Low season is a super time to be visiting these places - we have a lake-side pitch with a view to die for.  The site looks a little bit sad with some old 'dead' caravans, but everywhere we are receiving a great welcome and facitilies in tip-top condition.  (And of course, much cheaper than high season!)  We cycled a short way round the lake for our daily exercise, but mostly just enjoyed the view.

Today the family were coming here for the day so we were looking forward to an al fresco lunch by the lakeside .....  but for the first time in a fortnight, it rained.  It can get a little cramped with 6 of us in the van, but we had a great time playing Extreme Uno, having lunch, playing Consequences and Tommy Smartie before getting out with the brollies for a walk.  (Tommy Smartie is a Beaver game that Adam says his Beavers didn't play - it involves eating Smarties, so is extremely popular at 6th Horsham!)  The clouds were lifting as we set off, so we followed the track through the tall trees by the lake to the small village of Pur, stopped for drinks and with the rain gone, back to the site.  The family fly back home tomorrow, so we celebrated our last evening together with dinner at the campsite restaurant - probably our best meal yet and in lovely surroundings.

Rainy walk by Lago di Ledro

Beautiful even with low cloud

Brolly-drying time

Boys at the bar

It's been great being with you all ...

... See you back at home